Solar Knowledge Quiz

Roughly 2.50-4.00 per watt before incentives, so a typical 6-8 kW system runs 15,000-30,000 before the federal tax credit. Prices vary with panel type, inverter choice, and roof complexity.

Thirty percent of the system cost (equipment plus installation) comes off your federal income tax, but it is a credit against tax owed, not a rebate check, so it only helps if you owe enough tax. State and utility incentives stack on top where available.

System size based on your electricity use, panel efficiency and type, inverter choice (micro-inverters versus a string inverter), roof pitch and complexity, and whether you need a main panel upgrade. Batteries add 10,000-20,000 or more.

Typically 7-12 years depending on electricity rates, sun exposure, incentives, and financing. Systems last 25-plus years, so most owners enjoy 10-15 or more years of low-cost power after the payback point.

Financed systems often cost 20-40% more over the term because of interest, and 'no money down' deals sometimes embed dealer fees into the price. Compare the cash price, the financed price, and the APR before signing anything.

When you have good sun exposure, pay meaningful electric bills, plan to stay 7-plus years, and can use the full tax credit. If you will move soon or the roof is heavily shaded, solar rarely pays off.

Owning gives you the tax credit, full savings, and higher resale value, while leases and PPAs give you no credit, often include annual escalators, and can complicate a home sale. Buying is better for most long-term owners.

Micro-inverters cost more but isolate each panel, handle shading better, provide panel-level monitoring, and carry 25-year warranties. A string inverter is cheaper but one shaded panel drags the whole string down, and the unit typically needs replacing around year 10-15.

Monocrystalline panels are the standard choice because they are the most efficient per square foot. Polycrystalline is cheaper but less efficient, and thin-film is rarely used on homes. Match the panel count to your roof area and usage.

Take your annual kWh usage and divide by roughly 1,200-1,400 production hours per kW in most sunny regions, then check your usable roof area. A good installer sizes to your actual bills, not to their sales quota.

A state license where required, NABCEP certification (the industry standard for solar professionals), general liability insurance, and real experience with local interconnection rules and permitting.

Ask for the cash price, the financed price, the exact equipment brands and models, the production estimate and how it was calculated, the warranty terms on panels, inverter, and labor, and who handles permits and utility interconnection.

Check the state contractor board and your utility for complaints, look up company age and reviews, ask for local references, and confirm they have installed systems on your utility's territory, since interconnection rules vary.

Yes, at least three: pricing and equipment vary widely, and multiple quotes let you compare cost per watt, equipment quality, and production estimates. Be suspicious of door-to-door 'one-day-only' deals.

Panels and inverters carry manufacturer warranties, but installation defects like roof leaks and bad wiring are only covered by the installer's workmanship warranty, typically 10-25 years. Get it in writing and ask who honors it if the company closes.

Roof age and condition (a 15-20-year-old roof should usually be replaced first, since panels cost extra to remove and reinstall), orientation and tilt, shading, and structural capacity. A real installer inspects the roof rather than quoting from satellite images.

A panel product warranty (25 years), a performance warranty (usually 25 years at 80-92% output), an inverter warranty (25 years for micro-inverters, 10-15 for string), and installer workmanship coverage (10-25 years). Verify each one in the contract.

A detailed proposal with equipment models, cash price, financed price and APR, a 25-year production estimate, full warranty terms, and the interconnection agreement with your utility. Also check your HOA and local rules.

Net metering credits you for exported power, ideally at retail rates, but some utilities pay less or add demand charges. Ask the installer and your utility for the specific policy and rate before sizing your system.

Ask how it was modeled, which weather data and shade analysis were used, whether it accounts for your roof's tilt and orientation, and whether it is a conservative P50 or an optimistic P90 figure. Actual output can differ 10-20% from estimates.

Door-to-door reps who quote without inspecting your roof, inflated utility savings claims, and 'free solar' leases with escalating payments. Any promise of 'no electric bill ever' is marketing, not a fact.

Leases often raise your payment 2-3% every year while the system ages, so the savings shrink over time, and buying out the lease early costs a premium. Read the escalation clause and buyout terms before signing.

Main panel upgrades (1,500-4,000), roof repair before install, tree trimming, permit fees, and possible utility demand charges or interconnection fees. Ask for the all-in price with line items.

The cheapest quotes often use bottom-tier panels, undersized racking, or a string inverter that does not fit your shading, and they may skip a production guarantee. Compare equipment and warranty, not just the price per watt.